Dominica is truly a freediver’s paradise. Imagine crystal-clear waters, pristine reefs, geothermal hot springs, towering mountains, and stunning waterfalls. Add in daily rainbows, and you’ve got the perfect setting for an unforgettable dive adventure. And at the heart of it all? The chance to freedive with sperm whales in the open ocean.
It’s hard to fully capture how INSANE this experience was, but I’ll try my best to share it with you. If you’re dreaming of seeing these magnificent creatures up close, let me tell you how you can make it happen.
Getting to Dominica
Part of what makes Dominica so special is the effort it takes to get there, keeping the island less crowded and more pristine. The easiest route is via the USA, flying into Charles Douglas (Melville Hall, DOM) International Airport, with many connecting flights from Caribbean islands. For us, we flew from Frankfurt, Germany, with a stopover in Charlotte, a transit in Miami, and finally to Dominica. It took me 3 days of traveling, but after seeing the whales, every single second was worth it.
Here are a few other travel options to consider:
Direct flights from:
• Miami, USA > DOM (American Airlines)
• Barbados > DOM
• St. Lucia > DOM
If you’re coming from nearby islands, a ferry is also a great option. There are weekly boats from:
• Martinique
• St. Lucia
• Guadalupe
Ferries dock at the Port of Entry in Roseau, Dominica.
Freedive with Sperm Whales – A Lifetime Experience
Dominica is home to around 200 resident sperm whales, and it’s the only place where you can legally dive with them under a government-issued research permit. That’s why it’s important to choose a trustworthy operator for your trip.
We booked a 5-day whale safari with Behind The Mask—an experienced German travel agency that also helped us organize the proper permits. We had a fantastic captain, Jerry, who ensured our safety while showing deep respect for the whales. We were lucky enough to encounter sperm whales every single day of our trip. On our final day, we even spotted a pod of false killer whales and hundreds of dolphins!
What’s truly mind-blowing is how little you see of the sperm whales at the surface—just a glimpse of their massive heads and spouts. But when you’re in the water with them, you realize just how enormous and majestic these creatures are. It’s impossible to put into words how amazing it is—this is one of those experiences you can only truly understand by living it.
When Is the Best Time to Freedive with Sperm Whales in Dominica?
The best time to dive in Dominica is between November and May. This period offers the highest frequency of whale sightings, though the whales can be spotted year-round. Adult males are commonly seen between February and March, while females and juveniles stay in the area throughout the year.
The water temperature in Dominica is also perfect, averaging 26°C to 29°C (79°F to 84°F) year-round, so you can dive comfortably without needing a thick wetsuit.
What Gear Do You Need to Freedive with Sperm Whales?
Since sperm whales are often found near the surface, you probably won’t need to dive deep. The water temperature is warm, so no heavy wetsuits are necessary. I wore a 1.5mm half-body bikini suit from Trudive, while my boyfriend dove in shorts, a rash guard, and a 1.5kg neck weight for buoyancy.
Here are some essential items you should bring:
1. Mask, Snorkel, and Fins: It’s best to bring your own gear for comfort and fit.
2. Anti-fog Drops: For clear visibility underwater.
3. Sun Protection: Sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses for the time spent on the boat.
4. Waterproof Camera: I used my iPhone in a DIVEVOLK underwater case to capture most of the footage.
5. Sea Sickness Pills: It’s always a good idea to be prepared, as the ocean can be unpredictable.
Is It Safe to Freedive with Sperm Whales?
Despite their massive size—sperm whales can reach up to 12 meters (40 feet) and weigh 45 tons—these creatures are not dangerous. They’re known for being calm and gentle around humans. However, safety is still crucial, and it’s important to always dive with licensed and reputable operators who follow strict guidelines to ensure both your safety and the protection of the whales.
When swimming with sperm whales, the group size is limited to three people in the water at a time, maintaining a respectful distance. It’s also essential to avoid mothers with calves, as they can be protective. Be mindful not to approach too close to their powerful tail either.
Do You Need a Certification to Freedive with Sperm Whales?
No certification is needed to freedive with sperm whales. As long as you’re comfortable swimming with a mask, snorkel, and fins, you’re good to go. It’s all about the experience and the thrill of being in the water with these incredible animals.
Other Places to Encounter Sperm Whales Around the World
While Dominica is one of the best destinations for sperm whale encounters, other places like Sri Lanka and Mauritius are less regulated, which can impact both the quality of the experience and conservation efforts. We did a 10-day ocean safari in Sri Lanka, but it was a bit of a disappointment, as multiple boats chased the whales daily with no regard for how to approach them respectfully.
Europe offers excellent regulations, particularly in Norway for orcas and humpbacks, though sperm whale sightings there are less predictable. The Azores in Portugal also provide opportunities, but be prepared for colder water temperatures.
